How to Eat (and Drink) Your Way Through Rome
My guide to the best Roman dishes, restaurants, local wines, and experiences that make this city impossible not to fall in love with
As a self-proclaimed Italophile, I’m a bit ashamed to admit this was my first time spending more than just a night in Rome. Until now, it’s been one of those cities I pass through on my way to somewhere else — always promising myself I’d come back to explore it properly one day.
A nonstop flight from LAX makes Rome an easy stopover when I’m heading to the wine regions of Tuscany or Sicily (btw, you should join me in 2026), and with my parents and best friend joining my wine retreat in Tuscany this year, it felt like the perfect excuse to finally explore the Eternal City.
We spent a total of four nights in Rome, hitting some must-see tourist attractions, scoping out rooftop bars, and taste-testing the Roman pastas at traditional osterias.
Visiting in October introduced me to one of my new favorite Italian concepts: Ottobrata Romana. It refers to how the sun shines differently on Rome this time of year — warm days, vibrant sunsets, and fewer crowds — a kind of “second summer” when locals escape to the countryside or linger over golden hour aperitivo al fresco.
Here are some of my favorite things to eat and drink in Rome, plus where to find them.
Foods to try
Roman food might just be my favorite of the Italian cuisines. It’s rooted in history, simplicity, and seasonal ingredients. We’re talking decadent pastas, braised meats, and fried street food snacks.
I mean, it’s perfect.
Before we get into specifics as far as where you should be booking your dinner res, I want to share a few classic Roman recipes you’ll need to add to your food bucket list.
If you’re like me and you travel to eat, here are some absolute must-try dishes for your next trip to Rome.
Pastas: This feels self-explanatory, considering you’re visiting Italy. But each of Italy’s twenty regions have their own unique pasta dishes, and you have to try them all (I don’t make the rules). In Rome, you’ll find: Carbonara, Amatriciana (my fave), Cacio e Pepe, and Gricia. They’re all fantastic.
Carbonara: A creamy pasta made with guanciale (cured pork similar to bacon or pancetta), Pecorino Romano cheese, eggs, salt, and pepper.
Amatriciana: A tomato-based pasta dish with guanciale, Pecorino Romano, and red pepper flakes.
Cacio e Pepe: The name literally translates to “cheese and pepper”. It’s a cheesy pasta (thanks to Pecorino Romano, of course) with a black pepper kick.
Gricia: The so-called “mother” of Roman pastas, as it’s seen as the foundation for the others, this dish is made with guanciale, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper (it’s kind of collab between Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara).
Note: The descriptions above refer to the sauce ingredients, which can be replicated on a variety of different pasta shapes. This varies between restaurants, but in Rome, you’ll most commonly find bucatini, rigatoni, spaghetti, and tonnarelli.
Supplì: These little fried rice balls are considered Roman street food — perfect for a pick-me-up on your way to see the Trevi Fountain or after a Colosseum tour. The cooked rice is stuffed with cheese, tomato sauce, and sometimes meat, then fried to create a delightfully crispy ball of cheesy rice. Some supplì suppliers might get a little creative with their fillings (I tried one flavored like Cacio e Pepe), but the traditional mozzarella and tomato sauce is a must try.
Pizza al taglio: This thin-crust, rectangular Roman pizza is a traditional street-food snack often topped with cheese and sauce, or just tomato sauce. It’s thin, crispy, and deliciously sweet from the tomatoes.
Saltimbocca alla Romana: Traditionally made with veal, this comforting dish literally translates to “jumps in the mouth” because it’s so delicious. Thin-sliced veal cutlets are topped with prosciutto and sage and cooked in a white wine and butter pan sauce.
Carciofi alla Romana: Aka Roman-style artichokes. These braised artichokes are cooked low and slow in olive oil, white wine, and herbs, until they become unbelievably tender. The best time to taste these is in the springtime, when in season, but they’re still exceptional during other times of the year, if you can find them. Note: Carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) are another must-try and are deep fried, rather than braised.
Maritozzi: These sweet, brioche-like buns are filled with heaps of fresh whipped cream. They’re traditionally served at breakfast, but we opted for an afternoon pick-me-up paired with an espresso (just know that many cafes sell out of these after the breakfast rush, so you’re better off grabbing one earlier in the day). I was surprised by the balance of these fluffy pastries — they’re not overly sweet or sticky, just perfect.
Gelato (duh): This might be a given, but look for the artisanal shops with gelato hidden in silver tins. You should not be able to see the gelato exposed to the elements (and especially not in the form of a giant pile). The silver tin keeps the gelato fresh by preventing exposure to oxygen, and it’s a key sign the shop is serving a high quality product.
Wines to try
When I’m visiting a city in a wine-producing region, drinking the local wine is simply the only choice for me. Not only will you get more bang for your buck, but you’ll also find the local wines pair best with the dishes of that region (what grows together goes together).
Lazio, the home of Rome, isn’t necessarily the most famous wine region of Italy, but wine is produced here, none the less (it’s Italy, after all). The most common local wine I found on most restaurant lists was Cesanese, a wine thought to have been enjoyed by the ancient Romans.
We enjoyed two unique bottles of Cesanese del Piglio. Made with 100% Cesanese, this wine is well-balanced, with integrated tannins, red and black fruit aromas, savory dried herbs and earthiness, and moderate acidity. Its characteristic bitterness is toned down when paired with the local cuisine (which I highly recommend doing), and it becomes an easy-drinking glugger you’ll probably enjoy a little too quickly.
We also tried Nero Buono, another native grape that produces a medium-bodied wine with black fruit aromas. It’s one of those rare teinturiers, aka a grape with red skins AND juice (rather than a typical red wine grape that has clear juices) — this results in the wine’s characteristically deep color. We paired this with braised beef and amatriciana (surprise, surprise), and it was the perfect palate cleanser — bold enough to stand up to the meal with just enough tannins to cut through the fat on the table.
Curious to taste some Roman wine but not planning a trip yet? Explore some Lazio bottles from wine.com here.
Where to eat
Poldo e Gianna Osteria ($$): We loved this Michelin guide gem for our first night in Rome. The amatriciana was my favorite of the week, and the servers were charismatic and helpful. Definitely a place I’d revisit on my next trip!
Da Francesco ($$$): A little busy and expensive, but delicious regardless. Their extensive wine list is impressive (and a bit pricier), but the service was fine and dinner was tasty.
Ristorante Pinseria Da Massi ($$): Located in the heart of Trastevere — we were surprised to get a table here with no reservation, but it was midday, after all. We had gnocchi, carciofi, and a fantastic braised chicken dish in a flavorful tomato sauce.
Dar Poeta ($$): A classic spot for traditional pizza in the center of Trastevere. This is a great spot for lunch and a spritz — we walked in with no reservation.
Osteria del Pegno Roma ($$): Probably my top meal of the trip. It felt like we were the only tourists in this cozy osteria, where they serve all the classic dishes I mentioned above. Also, the seafood was surprisingly delicious. Cozy, candlelit, and comforting.
Ristorante Controluce ($$): With a more modern design, Ristorante Controluce is tucked in an alleyway, away from the mass crowds and tourists. We went for a classic pasta and braised beef here, paired with local wine, of course. The owner is sweet and we basically had the patio to ourselves on a warm October evening.
Roscioli ($$): With multiple locations, you can sit for dinner or grab supplì for takeaway. I’ve done both, and everything I’ve tasted here is exceptional.
Where to stay
With plenty of restaurants, lively neighborhood bars, and street performers, Trastevere is definitely the hip neighborhood to stay in.
We found an AirBnB just off one of the main drags of Trastevere — perfectly protected from late night noise, but still walking distance to the fun. This is a great option for two couples, or a group of four.
If you’re looking for a centrally located hotel with all the basics you need, the Double Tree Rome Monti is a great option as well. Explore other Rome hotel options here.
Bars
Milea ($$): This artsy bar in Trastevere crafts both classic and experimental cocktails. The perfect spot for a pre-dinner aperitivo if you’re looking for something different than a spritz or glass of vino.
Hotel Raphael($$$): A rooftop bar that doesn’t require a reservation weeks in advance — we actually went twice for this very reason. The drinks are a bit pricier, but you’re paying for the views and golden hour ambiance (worth it, IMO).
Must-do’s
I’ve partnered with two incredible Italian women, Lizzy and Lucia, to share these private tours around Rome (and Florence). Their values align with mine — supporting family-owned businesses that produce quality products, providing the perfect balance of education and leisure during visits, and enjoying la dolce vita with the people around us. These private tours will provide you with an unforgettable experience on your next trip to Italy.
Here are some private tours in Rome you can book through me:
Food Tour in Trastevere: This is the ultimate Rome food tour — a chance to dive into the city’s incredible food culture and eat like a true local. With your guide, you’ll wander through the charming Trastevere neighborhood, tasting some of Rome’s most iconic dishes at the spots locals actually love.
Rome Walking Tour: This walking tour will guide you to Rome’s most iconic spots — Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, and of course, the unmissable Colosseum. Learn the juicy historical secrets most tour guides don’t share. Entrance to the Colosseum and other monuments can be added to the tour and are subject to availability.
Golf Cart Tour: If a walking tour isn’t your thing, a golf cart tour allows you to cover more ground while taking a break from the cobblestoned treks. I just enjoyed this tour on my recent trip to Rome and it was a blast! Your amazing tour guide will pick you up at your accommodation and show you the most beautiful views and monuments in the city.
Find more info here or reach out to me with the tour you’re interested in and the dates of your travel: lexi@lexiswinelist.com.
More on my bucket list
While I didn’t make it to these on this trip, here are more restaurants and bar recs in Rome from our lovely wine community:
Supplizio (for supplì!)
Il Gocceto (wine bar)
VinAllegro (wine bar)
Argot (speakeasy bar)
I hope this mini foodie guide inspires you to just book that trip to Rome! And if you’re interested in exploring Italy’s wine country, I have a wine and food tour to Sicily coming up this April, as well as a wine retreat in Tuscany next October.
Hope to see you in Italy or at a virtual wine tasting soon!
Cin cin and ciao!🥂